Have been slumbering in Buenos Aires for a couple of nights now, so am officially a Portena si? Porteno … he who lives in BA.
And thus far our wanderings have yet to take us beyond the borders of our ‘hood … Recoleta. If this were London, Recoleta would probably be Chelsea. It would be where those streets in the 80s and 90s run from Madison to Fifth in New York. So it’s nice here 🙂
This almost didn’t happen incidentally. Meet me – she who jaywalks through life crossing her fingers and has pleading intimate chats with Lady Luck. The Goddess of Lastminutedotcom. Started looking for somewhere to stay during peak season oooh about 3 weeks ago? And after a string of hysterically cackling emails of rejection, I received the loveliest response from a lady who had rented an apartment out to my good friend Lady Tango a couple of years ago. No her stunningly chic holiday rental had been solidly booked out all season since October of course. BUT her neighbour who would be away for the holidays and had never actually let – her actual home – out, was considering helping us out. After all any friend of Lady Tango’s … 😉 Thankyouthankyouthankyou!
So here we are…
And even though our landlady has never done this before we were greeted upon arrival with a home-cooked lunch (yes – empanadas and salad 🙂 ), Latin acoustic guitar playing in the study, flowers everywhere, chocolate in the fridge, wine on the dresser, a local cellphone, a restaurant list, you get the picture ♥
This is home. It isn’t a hotel. There are charming cracks in the bathroom tile. You can hear families chatting over dinner through open windows. You need to buy your bottled water from the corner shop. Learn which the best neighbourhood parilla is. Where to order pizza for a night in with dvds and books. And remember to take the trash out.
It is just lovely. It is old with high ceilings and huge shuttered windows overlooking the leafy courtyard. There is a warmth that spreads through me as I browse her bookshelf, spy coloured glass jars on her bathroom shelves, finger a delicate silver necklace with pearls and rose charms left in a drawer. There is a real life that lives here. A life that’s vacated and made space for us…